THE BURGER QUEST: My Eight-Year Journey to Find LA’s Best Burgers

Aside from movie stars, traffic, gentrification, and irresponsible water usage, Southern California is famous for one thing: burgers. It was in Pasadena in the 1920s that a young line cook first slapped a slice of American cheese on a hamburger patty to create the cheeseburger. It was in Monrovia in the 1930s that the McDonald brothers opened their first restaurant. Despite being stereotyped as an all-natural-GMO-free-vegan-organic-health-nut paradise, Los Angeles County has a distinguished burger tradition.

It’s natural, therefore, to wonder where to find the best of the best, and it was on a spring afternoon in 2014 when I sunk my teeth into my first contender. My friend, Ryan, and I were eating lunch at a place called Mo Better Burgers on La Brea Avenue, and I was shocked at how delicious their signature dish was. I declared it the best burger in Los Angeles. But then decided I should probably eat every other burger in Los Angeles just to make sure.

I didn’t realize I had just half-jokingly committed myself to a search that would utterly consume my life for the better part of a decade. But it was my Joseph Campbell call to adventure. In the ensuing years I would wander into the unknown, experience joy and heartbreak, bond with friends, and emerge transformed.

The Great Los Angeles Burger Quest had begun.

DETERMINING THE CONTENDERS

At first, I just ate whatever burger ended up in front of me. But I soon realized that there were simply too many burgers on too many menus in the infinite restaurantscape of Los Angeles, and I’d have to narrow things down.

I settled on the idea of eating one hundred well-regarded burgers and narrowing them down to a top ten. Each burger had to be nominated by two independent sources, be it a newspaper, a TV show, a friend…whatever. I wanted the list to be LA specific, so the burger had to be located within the borders of LA County. The restaurant could have multiple locations, but none of those locations could exist outside of the state of California. (The battle between In-And-Out and Shake Shack will have to be decided elsewhere.)

I cross-referenced multiple “best burger” lists, I studied YouTube burger influencers, I put the word out to foodies I knew, and I compiled a mega-list of potential contenders, with priority given to any burger that came up more often than the others. It wasn’t going to be easy, but it promised to be delicious.

THE EARLY ROUNDS

It was fun at first. People were usually intrigued when Burger Quest came up in conversation, and everyone was excited to share their insights. It was a perfect way to break the ice at parties: Everyone out there has an opinion on the topic. When friends or colleagues wanted to meet up for a meal, I would recommend we try a contender burger in their neighborhood, and they usually enjoyed the idea of partaking in the experiment.

But…a HUNDRED burgers…

While some of the burgers were on the cheap side, I couldn’t afford to gorge at fancy gastropubs multiple times a month. And I needed a salad break now and then; I didn’t want to get sick of burgers! I had to pace myself. Which caused the experiment to drag on for years.

In that time, Mo Better Burgers, the burger that inspired the whole quest, tragically went out of business, as did several other burgers that otherwise would’ve potentially been crowned as champions. We’ll never truly know where Mo Better would’ve ranked on the best burger list, but it’ll always have a special place in my heart.

As more time and more burgers slipped away, I became what I’ve always hated: a food snob.

All burgers are good! It’s actually hard to make a truly bad one. But the more you eat, the more your palate slowly focuses on the subtleties. And when you know you’re only a third of the way through a hundred-burger journey, and you’ve driven all the way out to the Valley, and you’ve plunked down twenty bucks on a burger that some self-proclaimed expert on Reddit claims is one of the best even though it’s completely underwhelming, it’s natural to get jaded. I found myself ranting angrily when certain burgers were recommended to me, or when I was forwarded yet another lazily researched best burger listicle. I had robbed myself of the simple pleasure of enjoying a decent burger by cursing myself with knowledge.

But I also stumbled onto the key criterion that elevates a good burger to a great one…

WHAT MAKES A GREAT BURGER

Balance.

In each bite, you should experience a balance of meat, cheese, bun, toppings, and sauce all at once. Not necessarily an equal amount, but a balance. It’s a simple concept, but much harder to execute than it would seem. Maybe the tomato is sliced too thick, or they’ve skimped on the cheese. It doesn’t matter if you’ve got the best patty in town: If your bun is too pillowy or your signature sauce overpowers the flavor, you’re not achieving balance, and your burger will stumble.

It was my grasp of balance that begat my bitterness. I’d seethe with anger when Le Petit Trois would land on yet another best burger list, knowing that their burger is thrown off balance due to being drowned in red wine Bordelaise. I’d puzzle over why everyone kept trying to send me to Hinano Café despite the quality of the meat being something I could outdo on my own grill with a Safeway Select frozen patty. And then there’s the lettuce sandwich masquerading as a burger at the Apple Pan that people kept trying to gaslight me into believing is one of the city’s best just because it’s one of the city’s oldest. Good people of Los Angeles: if you think one of these burgers belongs in LA’s top ten, you haven’t really lived!

The conversational topic of burgers ceased to be a safe one in mixed company. I had about a dozen friends whose burger opinions I came to trust, but the general public was constantly championing burger mediocrity. I learned that to create a best burger list is to pick a fight. There are strong emotions tied in with our favorite foods, and declaring that a person’s favorite burger doesn’t make the cut is to assault that person’s entire identity.

The refrain I have been forced to repeat over and over again when someone feels hurt by their favorite burger’s lack of inclusion on my best-of list: Go eat a hundred burgers. Then let’s talk.

Despite the social downsides, Burger Quest remained a net positive in my life because it turned out to be the perfect excuse to explore the amazing city of Los Angeles. I would recruit my burger-loving friends for mid-week field trips to check out a Jonathan Gold recommendation in East LA, or to scout a legendary burger served out of the back of a liquor store in Redondo Beach. We watched the Compton Cowboys clop by on horseback while enjoying a burger at Mom’s. We giggled at how underdressed we were as we downed Wagyu burgers at the Beverly Hills Hotel’s Polo Lounge. We splashed in the ocean after chowing down at Big Dean’s near the Santa Monica Pier. We zig-zagged from Van Nuys to Watts to Long Beach to Pasadena to Hollywood to Chinatown to Eagle Rock to Alhambra to Inglewood and to neighborhoods further and in-between.

If you ever need to be reminded of how massive and diverse and enchanting Los Angeles County really is, just let the burgers be your guide.

THE EVALUATION PROCESS

As I ate my way through LA, the rules continued to evolve:

–It had to be primarily a beef burger. No ostrich, lamb, bison, etc. If it was a blend, it had to be minimum 50% beef. And while I’ve had some mind-blowing veggie burgers, that’s a different list for a different quest.

–The other elements of the dining experience were not a factor. The price of the burger, or how crisp the fries were, or the ambiance of the location, or the presentation or lack thereof didn’t count. Every burger was evaluated as though it were delivered for free on a plain white plate in a plain white room. Someone else can tackle French Fry Quest or Burgers Under Ten Dollars Quest if they so choose.

–If multiple burgers were on the menu, the default was to eat the “namesake” burger. Whatever the restaurant stood behind as their signature burger would be the contender, although if an alternate burger on the menu sounded particularly good, my friends and I would often order one in addition and split it, just to make sure we weren’t missing out.

–Alterations were acceptable, but kept to a minimum. When asked how I’d like the burger cooked, I defaulted to the chef’s recommendation. I would occasionally add bacon, and I would sometimes strip out excess lettuce, but I tried to avoid customizing too much so as not to risk affecting the chef’s intended balance.

–A minimum of three bites would be taken from each burger before discussing its quality with any fellow diners. That way each burger would be given a fair shake in case the first bite shortchanged it, and in case others’ opinions might subconsciously sway a vote.

–No categorization: A burger is a burger is a burger is a burger. Whether it’s a cheap smashburger served over a greasy counter in a sketchy neighborhood or an overpriced burger topped with gold leaf and served by a tuxedoed waiter in a Michelin-starred dining palace, it’s either the best burger you’ve ever had or it’s not. Bring it.

THE FINALS

After each contender was eaten, it was placed into one of three categories: Finalists, Honorable Mention, or Not So Much. Once a minimum of one hundred contender burgers had been eaten, the finalists would be re-eaten, and narrowed down to a top ten.

The top ten would not be enumerated. At that level, to suggest one burger deserves the 4^th slot while another deserves the 7^th is too nuanced and personal of a determination. I just wanted ten burgers that equally and definitively stood above the rest, and that I could objectively defend and recommend proudly.

During the finals round, all the burgers would be eaten in quick succession: one a day for three or four days, then a palate-cleansing one-month break until the next heat. And they were eaten in the company of the trusted friends who had joined me on earlier Quest missions so I could retain objectivity by weighing their opinions alongside my own. Once the burgers were served, no one was allowed to speak about it until everyone at the table was finished, at which point everyone gave it a number between one (“Why did you bring me here? You know NOTHING about burgers!”) and five (“This is, if not the best, at least AMONG the best burgers in LA.”).

Along the way, if we weren’t sure how to rank a burger, I would ask myself and my fellow Questers:

Would you go out of your way for this burger?

If you came back to this restaurant, would you have the burger or would you try something else on the menu?

Would you recommend this burger to others and stand behind that recommendation?

And the one that was the most telling: Will you think about this burger later?

The champions were burgers that stuck in your mind long after the meal was over. They were burgers that made you nostalgic for the moment when you were eating them. Burgers that you were dying to try again. Burgers you daydream about.

In the end, even though the goal was a top ten, I struggled to fill the last slot. Surely there were burgers up for consideration: The shrimp burger at Billionaire Burger Boyz is exceptional, and Pie ‘N Burger in Pasadena is an absolute classic. But if I were to include either of them on the list, I’d have to specify that they weren’t quite as well received by my burger committee as the burgers at, say, Amboy or Everson Royce. I’d have to rank them specifically at number ten, which would then mean that the rest of the list would have to be enumerated as well. I loathed the lack of poetry in a “top nine” list, but I figured that’s just how life goes sometimes.

THE BURGER HORIZON

And then, several months after the finals round had wrapped up and most of this article had already been written, I walked into Moo’s Craft Barbecue and bit into their tender, smoky, brisket blend patty with their skillfully balanced bun and toppings. It not only rounded out my list, but struck me with a glorious vision of the future. There are still plenty of leftover contenders that never got a shot, and right now, somewhere out there in LA, there’s a chef preparing to debut an innovative, brand-new burger, and there’s a hack food blogger ready to drop it into their next listicle. The top ten are not to be etched in stone; they are meant to serve as a reliable, battle-tested baseline for any future burgers that may cross my plate, or for anyone else foolish enough to embark upon a Burger Quest of their own.

On one hand, it’s somewhat dispiriting to think that I spent so much time on a Quest with no actual finish line. On the other, I’m glad I’ll always have an excuse to put new burgers to the test.

It was only during the final heat of the final finalist round that the beauty of Burger Quest finally sank in. My friend Dave and I were evaluating the namesake burger at Stout, and we realized that the first time he joined me for a Burger Quest outing was six years prior, at the very same location. We pondered the staggering changes that had taken place in our lives, and in the world, since then. During that original meal, we could never have predicted the seismic shifts we’d experience personally and professionally, or that we’d end up starting a band together, or that fascists would storm the U.S. Capitol after a global pandemic had shut down the planet.

The official finale of Burger Quest was at Father’s Office soon after. I rounded up as many of my Quest compatriots as I could and we toasted to all the time we’d had the privilege of spending with each other. Since the Quest began, the people at that table had changed careers and living situations and relationships. Some of them even brought human life into the world that hadn’t previously existed.

Through it all, we had the burgers.

They were our excuse to keep in touch. To check in with each other, and share the best and worst of what life had to offer. To laugh and gossip. And to bitch about whatever Star Wars movie had recently come out.

As glad as I am that I’m finally able to officially name my top ten, I miss my burger buddies, and our purposeful expeditions around our idiosyncratic town. So, if there’s a burger out there that isn’t on my list of contenders below, and if you truly believe it might be capable of knocking one of my champions out of its slot, send me an email.

Because Burger Quest shall live on forever.

The Official Burger Quest Champions (in alphabetical order)

AMBOY QUALITY MEATS (Chinatown)

This list is unenumerated on purpose, but if I were forced to nominate a top overall burger it might be the DH burger at Amboy. The patty is perfection in terms of blend, seasoning, and cooking. Despite its monstrous size it still achieves balance with the bun, cheese, and toppings. When I’m not eating it, I wish I were eating it. Burger nirvana.

EVERSON ROYCE BAR (DTLA)

Simplicity itself. Uncomplicated but unique. Like a piece of modern art, they make it look easy, but its brilliance takes more skill than one might realize. It belongs in a museum.

FATHER’S OFFICE (Culver City)

I would have loved nothing more than to knock Father’s Office off the pedestal it has been placed upon by every “best burger” list ever written. But I just can’t. Even in the face of harsh scrutiny and citywide competition, its reputation is justified, and if you hate them for not allowing substitutions, you’re letting everyone know you’re a noob.

FOR THE WIN (Hollywood)

Smashburgers have become a cursedly overblown food trend, and I had to suffer through far too many mediocre ones in the course of this experiment. Too often they are championed by burger novices, or folks who drunkenly sampled them outside their favorite bar after last call. For The Win was the only smashburger that smashed its way past the hollow hype of social media and onto this list. It is the benchmark by which all other smashburgers should be judged, but it can stand tall next to the best non-smashburgers as well. Not a bad bite to be had.

GOLDEN STATE @ COFAX (Fairfax)

Golden State was known for slinging quality burgers up until the Covid pandemic, at which point they were nearly forced to close for good. Thankfully, they’ve been able to survive on a limited schedule out of the kitchen of their neighbor, Cofax Coffee. The patty is perfectly cooked and seasoned, the sauce, greens, and cheese all complement without competing, and the bacon adds supporting saltiness whenever necessary. I’m glad you’re still with us, Golden State. This city needs you.

GRILL ‘EM ALL (Alhambra)

I never thought they’d make the finals. Their burgers are all super gimmicky, and overloaded with intense toppings. How can a burger maintain balance with fried jalapeno poppers and cream cheese and malt vinegar aioli as toppings while using grilled cheese sandwiches as buns? On paper, it shouldn’t work. But somehow it DOES. The burgers are ferocious power chords mixed with intricate solos that combine to touch on something primal. It’s one thing to flip the finger to the burger establishment, it’s another to back it up. One of the best burger experiences in LA, and likely the entire world.

MOO’S CRAFT BARBECUE (Lincoln Heights)

When you walk through the doors of Moo’s you are forced into an impossible Sophie’s Choice between their award-winning, Texas-style barbecue or their masterfully constructed Thicc Burger. Moo’s meat expertise is on full display with their burger’s lustfully tender brisket blended patty, which is delicately encased by a peppery, BBQ-smoked crust. It’s supported by a talented ensemble of bun, cheese, and toppings that provide near-perfect balance. I came home from Moo’s like a teenage girl in a Broadway musical singing about an enchanting first date. Even if you’re worried you’ll never find true love, Moo’s Thicc Burger will sweep you off your feet.

PLAN CHECK (West LA)

Plan Check was considered a finalist early on, but when they opened other locations, I received reports that the quality had dwindled. When they were re-evaluated for the official finals round, I was pleased to discover that not only had the original location maintained its high standards, but had held up against years of accumulated competition. A well-balanced burger still willing to take chances with unconventional toppings. Their famous ketchup leather is an inspired enhancement rather than a pretentious contrivance. I’m sorry I ever doubted you, Plan Check.

SIMMZY’S (Long Beach)

The namesake Simmzy’s burger is sinfully juicy and well-seasoned, with one brave leaf of lettuce that doesn’t steal any focus. (Too many otherwise great burgers are ruined by overzealous lettuce, and it’s a problem that Congress should immediately address.) It may not unseat the other burgers on this list, but it can stand shoulder to shoulder with them, and it decidedly beat out many other finalists. A champion for sure.

STOUT (Hollywood)

It is by no means a secret that Stout’s burger is one of LA’s best. It dares to combine bold flavors like bleu cheese and fig jam without falling off the tightrope, and has remained juicy and remarkably consistent over the years. I would eat there anytime, I’d send someone there without hesitation, and even though I haven’t tried all the other burgers on their menu I have faith that they’re all well worth a try. Even after stacking up a hundred other burgers in front of it, Stout remains stoutly at the top.

APPENDIX: The Contender List

THE FINALISTS

These were nominated for the finals round, but this is NOT a list of burgers that are second only to the champs. Some of them held up well to re-evaluation, others fell flat due to inconsistent quality or naïve early judgement. Those with an asterisk would be tentatively worth recommending. Those with a strikethrough unfortunately closed before they could be re-evaluated.

25 Degrees

Barrel and Ashes

Belcampo

Bellwether

Beer Belly

*Billionaire Burger Boyz (shrimp surf n turf burger)

Bowery

Burgers Never Say Die

Connie and Ted’s                       

*Eveleigh

Goldburger

Hache

*Laurel Tavern

*Little Beast

Little Dom’s

*Messhall Kitchen

Mo’ Better Burgers

*Pie n Burger

Preux and Proper

Republique

*The Rose

Standing Room

HONORABLE MENTION

Adrift Burger Bar

Apple Pan

Beacon

Big Dean’s Ocean Front Café

Bill’s

Blue Dog Tavern

Blue Palms

Burger She Wrote

Café Stella

Cassell’s

Electric Owl

The Escondite

Fix Burger

Fred’s Downhome Burgers

Fundamental

George Petrelli’s Steak house

Great White

Hawkins House of Burgers

HiHo Cheeseburger

Hinoki and the Bird

Honor Bar

Humble Potato

Mohawk Bend

Mom’s Burgers

The Oaks Gourmet

Petit Trois

Pier Burger

Polo Lounge

Pono Burger

Super Burger

Taste

The Tripel

Uncool Burgers

The Win-Dow at American Beauty

NOT SO MUCH

I hate to come down on any burger too harshly, but if there are winners then there have to be losers. Only a few of these were truly “bad,” but these are the burgers I’m not interested in eating again.

Animal

Baltaire

Biergarten

The Bucket

Burgerlords

Burger Lounge

Burgers 99

Brolly Hut

Capitol Burgers

Catcher In The Rye

Charlie’s Coffee Shop

Chroni’s Famous Sandwich Shop

The Counter

Eggslut

Ercoles

Eureka

Fanny’s at the Academy Museum

Hinano Café

Hollywood Burger

Howard’s Famous Bacon and Avocado

Hungry Cat

Irv’s Burgers

Jack’s Classic

Jitlada (jazz burger)

Ledlow

Love Hour

Magnolia House

Marty’s Hamburger Stand

The Oinkster

Osteria La Buca

Paley

The Park

Penny’s

Rounds Premium Burgers

Salt’s Cure

Skybar

Slater’s 50/50

Tatsu Ramen

Taylor’s

Tripp Burger

The Wallace                         

The York

Yuca’s